While enjoying a tropical vacation, pearls are often the souvenir of choice, which makes sense – they are beautiful reminders of the ocean and the salt spray always lingering in the air. But most people have no idea what to look for, and I am a certified specialist through the CPAA (Cultured Pearl Association of America), so I am here to help. Some things to know:

They are very often not round, very often not white, and you’ve probably paid too much for them.

Pearls get a bad rap. Partially this is deserved; most people have only been exposed to the pearls sold in chain jewelry stores. Employees of these stores almost never have any specific training on pearls, and the owners tend to buy what is available fourth-hand (bought from someone who bought from someone who bought from someone who bought it from the dealer). The result is dull, poor-quality pearls priced multiple times what they are worth.

There are multiple online stores dedicated solely to pearls, with owners who buy directly from growers and dealers and thus are able to sell to customers at much more reasonable prices. I have had good experiences with Pearl Paradise, Pearls of Joy, and Kojima Pearl, but there are many other companies that specialize in pearls and have good reputations. And of course, sometimes you stumble upon excellent pearls even in ordinary jewelry shops; the trick is knowing what you’re looking at.

So, what to look for? Here are some qualities, in order of importance from low to high:

1. Shape. Round pearls have greater value because they form more rarely, but shape alone is not a deal-breaker. Many, many people love button pearls because they rest more comfortably against the body; others are fans of drop shapes for their unique aesthetic. And of course there are the “free-form” pearls that have their fans, such as fireballs, which make fascinating pendants, and natural “keshi” pearls whose small, uneven shapes are suited very well for less formal jewelry. The best advice to give here is to buy what you like.
2. Size. Again, not a deal-breaker. Some people look better in smaller pearls or find them more comfortable to wear. Larger, good-quality pearls will be worth more, but smaller pearls more often have good surface quality and sharp luster. They are also much lighter. Keep in mind, too, that because a pearl is roughly spherical, and has volume, it is going to look larger than its dimensions would suggest. Buy what you like.
3. Surface. Pearls form by turning inside the oyster so layers of nacre can be deposited, which often results in pits or grooves on the surface of the pearl. A perfectly smooth pearl is quite rare and therefore worth more, but a pearl doesn’t have to be smooth in order to make good jewelry. Very commonly, one side of the pearl is flawed, and this side is simply set to the back so it is against the wearer’s skin and not showing.
4. Orient. Pearls have an iridescent color play on the surface similar to the sheen on the surface of a bubble – this is called orient. A strong orient will add value, and it also just generally makes a pearl prettier. Orient is unique to pearls, and a quality that makes them famous. Tahitian pearls in particular are renowned for their orient, especially what is known as ‘peacock’: green and purple flashes layered over a dark gray surface. Japanese Akoya pearls also often have lovely orient, and more recently, even Chinese freshwater pearl growers have begun developing cultured pearls with orient. A pearl can still be nice without this, if the luster is sharp, but since orient is part of what makes a pearl a pearl, it ought to be celebrated and enjoyed.
5. Luster. How shiny is the pearl? There is an easy test for luster: the more clearly a reflection can be seen in the pearl, the higher the luster. Luster is one of the most desirable qualities in a pearl (with the exception of South Sea pearls, which form differently and have a unique, soft appearance). A good luster will often lead to better orient as well and help the pearl stand out more against the wearer. Modern growers are frequently developing pearls that can even be called metallic. Many pearl fans ignore size, shape, and surface entirely in favor of finding pearls with good luster and orient. This allows them to purchase unique, lovely pearls at a fraction of the price and to also have pearl jewelry that doesn’t fit the “Grandma” cliché.

Finally, keep in mind that pearls come in many, many natural colors: white, pink, lavender, cream, silver, blue, pistachio, green, gold, gray, black, and even vibrant purple. A person wanting to wear pearls has countless options and does not need to go bankrupt to do it. So give pearls a try, and good luck with the hunt!

Some of the pearls I’ve met before: