The Opal Thai restaurant in the North Shore village of Haleiwa is known for a few things: a line out the door, delicious food, and a charismatic chef who does not allow new visitors to order their own food. Opal, the owner and cook, takes his time interviewing customers at each table. He runs down a list of basic ingredients (“You like rice? Noodles? Fish? Chicken? Duck? Tofu? Spice or no spice?”), remembers the answers, then disappears back into the kitchen to create a meal suited to those tastes. My first visit, during a dual birthday celebration, included one guest who, when asked whether she liked Thai food, sheepishly told Opal no. His response:

“You know why you don’t like Thai food? Last time you had it, the guy in the kitchen was Chinese and told you he was making Thai!”

Our guest, a notoriously picky eater, had to admit at the end of the meal that a few of the entrees had been “pretty good.” The rest of us were raving. It also happened to be my first time ever trying Pad Ke Mao, Drunken Noodles, which is a recipe I loved and have completely failed to either recreate on my own or find at the same quality anywhere else.

I was lucky to visit Opal’s frequently enough to be allowed a menu; none of the dishes ever disappointed. And Opal kept himself involved. One time, I was enjoying my pad thai while he walked past my table. He stopped dead, reached for the lime wedge left on the plate, and squeezed every drop of juice on my noodles before sauntering away without saying a word. (Yes, the next bite tasted better).

My only complaints about the place are the wait times to be seated and that they insist on giving out these tiny water glasses that are not nearly large enough to help the average spice-averse Caucasian through a meal (for the record, I like spice and usually order meals at a Medium level, but it is uncomfortable with no water). I recommend bringing along a water bottle. Otherwise, you’re depending on the mercy of the waitstaff, who can be slow with refills.

Note: Opal’s success led to the restaurant opening a location in Honolulu, and it seems a food truck! Reviews indicate that food quality hasn’t changed.